Robert Geller is the German-born, New York City designer that gives a much-needed kick to American menswear each season. With his Autumn/Winter 2016 runway show, we see a stylish gentleman that fades from a black/grey palette to a very colorful, vibrant one. The very creative Geller took inspiration from the Michael Ende children’s book Momo or The Grey Gentlemen, which he read as a young child. The basis of the book was the struggle of the young, colorful character versus the menacing grey men who take over the city.
Geller gave us his version of well-dressed grey men at the beginning of the show, sending models down the runway in very dark, utilitarian styles. We saw black leather jackets, vests, pants and short gloves, as well as dramatic wool coats, slim turtlenecks and pegged trousers with zippered ankles. Mid-show the grey men evolved into a glorious group of camel, tan and browns. The last looks, which represented the imaginative child character Momo, were much less constrictive in cut and style, which seemed to be a nod to 80s menswear (as opposed to the grey men that had a bit of a 40s retro-futurism feel). This group consisted of brilliant pops in the color palette, including mustard, magenta and reds.
Geller wisely accessorized his men with stylish fedoras, as well as incredible steel studded briefcases by Japanese brand Adachishiki. There was also the terrific collaboration with luxury footwear company Common Projects, particularly a Chelsea boot shown in grey and blue suede.
We mustn’t forget to mention the slicked back, pomade hairstyles with paint, that gave a finishing touch to that oh-so-precise Geller look. Unlike the character Momo, we would welcome the grey men taking over our city with that incredible menswear style. Photography Alexander Thompson. http://www.robertgeller-ny.com