THE MARTIN KEEHN LOOK
MEN’S GROOMING S/S 2015
With both Spring and New York Fashion Week around the corner, we were inspired by the dynamic, over-the-top men’s grooming at Martin Keehn’s Spring/Summer 2015 runway show. James Valeri, editor-in-chief/creative director of Document Journal (along with Nick Vogelson), arguably the go-to art/music/fashion magazine in print today, was the stylist for Martin Keehn S/S15 and envisioned the concepts for the show. For hair, Martin selected the renowned editorial hairdresser Jimmy Paul from Susan Price NYC. For makeup, Martin acquired the talented artist Mark Carrasquillo from Art Partner. We spoke to both gentlemen about the inspiration and grooming techniques used for this incredible men’s show. Photography Alexander Thompson. https://www.martinkeehn.com/
JIMMY PAUL: Martin Keehn is a huge inspiration. James Valeri, the stylist and editor of Document Journal, pulled out a L’Uomo Vogue cover I worked on with Steven Meisel in the nineties – Big Pompadours – a look I always return to. I love all the great reportage photos of gangs from the fifties and sixties. And throw in some camp from the gay scene, those are references that I always go to.
I use products from Bumble and Bumble. First off, I used a ton of their thickening mousse and blow-dried that in using a round brush. Then, I did a curling iron set on all of the guys and teased the shit out of it. Next, I smoothed it into shape with a comb. I always use a ton of the classic hairspray, which was a lifesaver, as it was extremely hot and humid…a killer to hairdos!
MARK CARRASQUILLO: In my opinion, Martin Keehn reacts to a masculine handsome male esthetic. So, I had that in mind, mixed with my memory of 1980’s American GQ images by Bruce Weber. I really went for end-of-summer tan skin. I wanted to make it all pumped, so we darkened brows and applied Vaseline to brows and lashes. I wanted the lashes to look like the guys went swimming. It was all Charles Hicks’ Looking Good: A Guide for Men book on steroids.
I mixed a serious batch of my own fake tan product that I’ve been using for years, but I really went for it! It was my first time working on Martin’s show, so I wanted to show off a bit and I thought New York fashion week could stand a bit of grooming drama.
In real life, men can use Tom Ford Bronzing Gel or Clinique Bronzer for Men, which feels so eighties to me.