FROM WIKIPEDIA: Dark wave is a music genre that emerged from the new wave and post-punk movement of the late 1970s. Dark wave compositions are largely based on minor key tonality and introspective lyrics, and have been perceived as being dark, romantic, and bleak, with an undertone of sorrow.
We first fell in love with designer Daisuke Obana’s creations for the N. Hoolywood Japanese menswear label some seasons back and the designer consistently intrigues us season after season.
It’s no secret that we eagerly await whatever New York City menswear designer David Hart throws at us on his runway each season. And we’re never disappointed. This season saw an obvious nod to the early 70s, and we were enamored with the entire collection.
Willy! Willy! Willy! The past few seasons from designer Willy Chavarria have made us big fans of all things Willy. And this season was no different. The New York City designer took inspiration from immigration rights issues in the United States. Way to go!
We’ve probably said this before, but here we go again…Libertine is hands down our favorite collection to feature every season during New York Fashion Week. Brilliant designer Johnson Hartig is consistently dead on with his LA based hi-end fashion label, catering to fun girls and boys with a bit of extra cash in their wallets.
“Fade To Grey” is the name of our latest Ponyboy menswear editorial, a song title from the new romantic band Visage, fronted by style icon Steve Strange. A favorite time period of ours, the late 70s to early 80s proved to be so creative and expressive, from the punk movement to the birth of new wave.
The Abasi Rosborough men’s collection for Fall 2018, shown during New York Fashion Week. Casting by John Tan. Photography Alexander Thompson. http://abasirosborough.com/
Luar is the eclectic, young and really fantastic menswear/womenswear/unisex line that’s designed by the fascinating talent known as Raul Lopez. His Fall 2018 Pieces of Me collection is one of the freshest things we’ve seen in ages with it’s creative cuts and twisted designs.
Enamored is what we are of brilliant designer Feng Chen Wang’s bold menswear statements. Last season we just couldn’t get enough of her “Made In China” collection for SS 2018. And her Fall 2018 season was just as strong with her coming home theme.
Menswear designer Willy Chavarria is making bold statements with his dark and masculine collections. Unfortunately, we missed last season’s show at the infamous New York City leather bar, The Eagle – a very strong showing that had people talking. This season’s show dubbed “Believers” was no less powerful.
It’s no secret that Ponyboy worships all things from menswear designer David Hart, with his twist on 50s midcentury aesthetic presented in past collections. However, this season Hart made this statement: “This collection is really inspired by the mass exodus of American brands leaving New York to show in Paris.
Our latest menswear editorial featuring 20 year old male model Casey Jackson, from the New York Model Management. Men’s grooming by Walton Nunez, from the Brooks Agency New York, using hair products by Victory Brand Products; skin products by Dermalogica. Photography and menswear styling by Alexander Thompson. Thank you to Ammon Carver Studio in New York City for grooming location services. https://www.instagram.com/caseyljackson/
Backstage at designer Johnson Hartig’s sequin filled, colorful collection for the fabulous Libertine label. Shown during New York Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2018. Photography Alexander Thompson. http://www.ilovelibertine.com/
MATIERE is inspired from the French word meaning “material” or “subject matter.” Established in 2013, by founders Henry Choi and Scot Shandalove. The Los Angeles, CA based design lab is continuously evolving the seamless integration of form, function, and comfort into their sleek modern aesthetic with an understated yet refined point of view.
The brand’s global research and development of luxury fabrics is achieved in partnership with world-class knitting mills, from the Wakayama Prefecture of Japan to the woven technical expertise found in the Italian Province of Como. This drives the brand’s innovative collections combined with experimentation in textile dying and production treatments. Photography Alexander Thompson. https://www.matiere.com/
System Down is the Spring/Summer 2018 menswear collection by progressive, young menswear designer Raun LaRose. Presented in New York City during men’s fashion week. Photography Alexander Thompson. http://raunlarose.us/
Scottish-born, New York City designer Nicholas P. Elliott’s first US runway show for his N-p-Elliott
menswear line, Spring/Summer 2018. Photography Alexander Thompson. http://npelliott.com/
With a master’s degree in fashion from the prestigious Royal College of Art in London in 2015, we first became aware of the London based menswear designer Feng Chen Wang when the brand was nominated for the LVMH Prize in 2016. In her first New York runway show, the designer paid homage to her home country with “Made In China” emblazoned on many of the looks. Most designers don’t usually boast about that, but Feng Chen was determined to change the negative connotations of her produced in China collection. With the designer’s focus on technical outerwear, we saw futuristic garments that caught our eye in more ways than one. Design touches included ruching, drawstrings, top-stitching and slashes on this primarily athletic line. And what about those fantastic gloves! A quote from the brilliant designer in WWD regarding her inspiration, “The Chinese landscape, with it’s vast rural expanses and vivid expressions of color, inspired a collection which contemporizes China’s luxury heritage.” Feng Chen Wang, a Ponyboy favorite. Photography Alexander Thompson. http://www.fengchenwang.com/
Gustav von Aschenbach is the highly anticipated menswear project created by New York City designer Robert Geller. In usual Geller fashion, the designer did not disappoint. Named after the main character from the book “Death in Venice” by Thomas Mann, Geller created a more accessible and affordable line, taking a break from his usual very stylish and avant-garde collections. Looks were very easy and effortless, something that you could just pull out of the dryer and throw on. But it was far from boring. In fact, we found the simplicity of the boxy and oversized cuts, many shown in monochromatic pairings, to be refreshing, youthful and just beautiful. It all seemed utilitarian, as if one was wearing a uniform or workwear. As always, Geller keeps us watching and wanting more. Photography Alexander Thompson.
Young and hip, Private Policy showed their Spring/Summer 2018 collection called Trinkets during Men’s New York Fashion Week. The design duo, consisting of creative founders Haroran Li and Siying Qu, both graduates of the Parsons School of Design, once again gave us rebellious youth with their vision. Albeit a small collection, Private Policy gives all their guts and glory! This season’s inspiration seemed to be a mix of both cowboy and bondage, or perhaps western punk? Key elements included satin bombers with matching chaps and bondage trousers. The black & white checkerboard look thrown into the mix was a festive element, as well as the Native American jacquard jacket and shorts ensemble, worn by male model of the moment, Jacopo Olmo. And all looks were worn with cowboy boots. But perhaps our favorite look was the incredible trench coat that appeared to be made from plastic deli bags with the classic “Thank You” text. These super fab looks were topped off with fun wigs by Oribe wizard, Kien Hoang, which helped to lend that rebellious “Sprouse” punk feel. Private Policy is one to follow. Photography Alexander Thompson http://www.privatepolicyny.com/
Menswear designer David Hart kindly took us on a colorful trip to Cuba with his oh-so-cool collection for Spring 2018. It’s no big secret that we at Ponyboy are big David Hart fans and can never get enough of his terrific vintage inspired clothing. This season we saw beautifully cut linen suits in a great color palette, including mint, salmon and coral. The boldly striped blazer was a fabulous piece, as well as the banana print shirts. He showed two Guayaberas, our favorite being the pastel pink version. And we loved the Ban-lon inspired knits. Accessories included straw hats, wayfarers and silk neck scarves that lent an air of stylish sophistication. Hart knocks out tuxedos so beautifully (which we saw last season), for example, the blue paisley print stunner, also shown in brown. We love when he throws a few women’s looks into the collection. This season he featured a 50s “pipe dreams” print tie top shown with a high waisted trouser. While Hart looks to the past for inspiration, his designs never seem too retro, and always appear to be made for the modern stylish man. Photography Alexander Thompson http://www.davidhartnyc.com/
Founded in 2001, the West Coast based clothing company, Libertine, is forever on our mind and always our favorite show to cover each season during New York Fashion Week. It’s much more than a fun-filled show. The collection that designer/founder Johnson Hartig sends down his runway each season pops with explosive color and design. It’s the perfect mix of art meets fashion, never boring and always fun-filled, young and vibrant. Take a trip down an electric walkway and live life to the fullest! Wear Libertine! Model Jonathan Normolle/New York Model Management. Photography Alexander Thompson. Stylist/editor Xina Giatas. Men’s grooming Walton Nunez. All menswear courtesy of Libertine, for Fall/Winter 2017. http://www.ilovelibertine.com/
Thee Teen-Aged is the new “bad boy” menswear brand that we stumbled upon from the oh-so-talented Alyasha Owerka-Moore. Alyasha, also known as ‘Aly’, helped launch Phat Farm, the very popular 90s clothing label from record mogul Russel Simmons. He’s also had design stints with Droors Clothing (DC), American Dream Inc., Alphanumeric, Fiberops and now resides as the brand historian for the PF.Flyers sneaker brand. Photography & Videos Connor Wyse. https://thee-teen-aged.com/ https://www.instagram.com/theeteenaged/?hl=en
PONYBOY: Aly! You just recently launched a menswear project, Thee Teen-Aged clothing line. How did this all come about?
ALYASHA OWERKA-MOORE: Thee Teen-Aged has actually lived several lives starting back in 2011. I’d printed some shirts back then and worked with a friend’s company to do a collaborative project. We’d built, cut and sewed samples and then unfortunately, my friend’s company went bankrupt. Later it was launched as a skateboard company and more of just a passion project. In December 2016, I partnered up with some old friends who gave me the opportunity and support to hire a team, and actually build the brand I’d initially wanted it to be. I get to work with a bunch of like-minded and talented friends whom I’ve respected for a long time.
PONYBOY: What originally caught our attention is the aesthetic behind the line, reminiscent of a 1950s B movie, bad boy teenage delinquency, with a twist of punk thrown in there. We just love it! Tell us about this inspiration?
ALYASHA OWERKA-MOORE: I’m a big fan of those exact 1950s teenage delinquency films. When I was a kid, my mom hipped me to brands like Fiorucci. In the late 70s and early 80s there was a big revival of 40s & 50s fashion, as well as a reinterpretation of rockabilly, as well as punk taking the piss at the 40s-50s utopic nuclear family. I feel like today we are living in a similar time socially and politically. The name simply means that the things that I do to make me a functioning adult and productive member of society are the exact things I was told to discard to become that. Thee Teen-Aged is actually the anti-midlife crisis.
PONYBOY: The vintage inspired clothing trend has really exploded over the past few years, primarily menswear and workwear. What makes this label stand out from the other vintage inspired labels?
ALYASHA OWERKA-MOORE: There are so many brands that do “workwear” well. Perhaps too many. I love workwear, but I’m a black man who grew up in New York City. I don’t personally find any romance in the dustbowl, depression or Jim Crow eras, as much as I respect the clothing and style of those eras. I do find inspiration in the music of those times. In my mind, the world doesn’t need another workwear brand. I like rock ‘n’ roll and city shit. A brand is similar to a person; if you spend your time trying to be everything to everyone, you lose your sense of self and identity. It’s my own opinion, but a brand should have an attitude.
PONYBOY: Well said! The pieces are made in the USA. In fact, you have a teaser video titled, “Proudly Made By Immigrants in The USA”, obviously a statement against President Trump’s policies. Correct?
ALYASHA OWERKA-MOORE: Absofuckinglutely right!
PONYBOY: The staples in the collection seem to be the denim jeans, button-up shirts (love the leopard detail!), jackets and t-shirts. How many pieces do you have in the line so far?
ALYASHA OWERKA-MOORE: Two jeans. One is a classic stovepipe, and the other is a roomier version of what is contemporarily called a “Slim-straight”. An hbt pant in black and khaki. There’s a flannel Shirt. And a selvedge chambray shop class shirt. A nylon “windbreaker”. Leather riders jacket (called the “Tony Wong” named after the baddest cat in the film The Wanderers.) And six tee shirts.
PONYBOY: Who are the core members of Thee Teen-Aged project? Are you the main designer or is it a collaborative effort?
ALYASHA MOORE: Technically, I am the main designer and creative director. However, it is definitely a collaborative effort. Connor Wsye shoots all the photos and video. George Wilson does all of the manufacturing, production management and collaborates on cut and sew design. Jason Adams contributes graphics and design concepts. Brian Awitan manages sales. And Cal Travis Oaks, Tony Bang and Taylor Vinton keep the energy flowing!
PONYBOY: What can we expect from Thee Teen-Aged in the future? Any plans for a pop-up? Trade shows? Collaborations?
ALYASHA MOORE: We’ve been toying with the idea of showing at Liberty Fairs / Piti Uomo / Made in USA section. As well as Complex Con and Inspiration. It would be cool to do a pop-up, but I think that a flagship store says so much more. Other than that, keep making things that we dig on.
